Women love to flaunt pieces of gorgeous jewellery that complement their stylish outfits. But have you ever realised how many different kinds of styles & techniques are there to choose from? Our new series ‘Trick of Trade’ is to make you understand the different kinds of jewellery ornamentation techniques better. So, this month, we bring to you, the story behind the intricate art of granulation in jewellery designs. This technique is better known as Rava work which has been a part of Indian jewellery since a long time. It’s incredible how tiny granules of precious metal are arranged and soldered together to form gorgeous designs that add the touch of glamour to the most mundane of your looks! Shop for gold jewellery online and get the latest collection of designer jewelleries with rava work which enhances the value of Indian jewellery.
Historians think that the technique of granulation has its origins in Sumer around 5000 years ago. Etruscans used this intricate technique in the 1st century B.C., while the ancient Greeks were also adept in this art of jewellery making. The Ertrurian craftsmen, however, mastered this technique in a way that was mysterious to the rest of the world, thus becoming renowned for their skill in Rava work. Gujarat is the earliest hub of Rava work jewellery in India, which produced the jewellery flaunting an intricate mix of fine filigree and traditional granulation ornamentation. They are called Ras-Rava styles.
Craft & technique
There are three basic ways to fix the small metallic granules to the base metal. They are hard soldering, fusing and colloidal soldering. The metals used for Rava work are generally precious metals like high karat gold or silver alloys. Anything less than 18K gold are not suitable for this technique. The granules are crafted from the same metal as the base, and there needs to be uniformity in the size of the granules while creating a design. Only an expert hand can attach the granules to the base in any one of the three ways mentioned, and create intricate yet stunning patterns on the jewellery!
This technique has given rise to a wide range of designs & patterns over the years. The value of Rava work is in the fact that each tiny granule of gold or silver is formed by hand, and also affixed on the base metal one by one in a long & painstaking process. Hence, all jewellery products adorned with granulation technique are beautiful, precious & valuable. From elegant granule-covered surfaces of pendants to delicate ornamental patterns made of Rava balls on finger rings to traditional designs created using this technique on earrings – this style of jewellery are must-haves in every woman’s life.